Blast Off And Paint!

· Acid Clean the swimming pool with a 50-percent water, 50-percent muriatic acid solution. Be sure to scrub the walls and floor and use the proper safety equipment and procedures.

· Rinse the entire swimming pool, skimmers, fittings, lights and stairs completely.

· Re-clean the swimming pool with TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate), a detergent available at all paint stores and most hardware stores. Follow the directions on the TSP container. This step will neutralize the acid, remove the glaze from the existing paint, and remove any leftover grease, oil or dirt. Rinse with fresh water completely. When you think you have rinsed the entire swimming pool, rinse it again!

· Pump out all of the water and remove any leftover debris. Remove water from the skimmer, and sponge any standing water from low spots around steps and fittings. Allow the swimming pool to dry for three to five days (acrylic paint can be applied on damp or recently wet surfaces). Tape off the tile band and fittings with masking tape to prevent getting any paint on them.

· Just before painting the pool, scrape any last-minute flakes from the pool surface. Sweep the pool and blow leaves and dirt from the pool deck. Check the weather forecast for rain or high winds. If there is a chance of rain, wait. Open the swimming pool paint and mix it well, using an electric drill with a paddle mixer. Mix for about five to seven minutes.

· Apply paint with a 3/8-inch-nap roller. Start in the deep end of the pool and work your way to the shallow end. Use an extension pole on the roller for the deep-end walls. Mid-morning is the best time to paint, after the dew has lifted. Do not apply paint if the temperature is below 40 F or above 90 F. Extremely humid weather can be bad, as the paint will not adhere. If you are applying a second coat of paint, wait two to four hours before re-applying.

· The last step is very important. You must wait five days before filling the swimming pool so the new paint job can cure completely (three days with acrylic paint). If there is rain during that time, remove any standing water after the rain has stopped. Use a sponge and leaf blower to dry the pool. If the rain lasts more than an hour or two, add a day to the cure time. After the cure time, fill the pool without stopping until it is full.

· When the pool is full, restart the swimming pool filter system and adjust the total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels to a minimum of 150 ppm. Resume normal chemical maintenance.

Don’t forget to consult your particular paint manufacturer instructions for application instructions.


Sandblasting or bead blasting is a generic term for the process of smoothing, shaping and cleaning a hard surface by forcing solid particles across that surface at high speeds; the effect is similar to that of using sandpaper, but provides a more even finish with no problems at corners or crannies. Sandblasting can occur naturally, usually as a result of the particles blown by the wind causing eolian erosion, or artificially, using compressed air. An artificial sandblasting process was patented by Benjamin Chew Tilghman on October 18, 1870.

Sandblasting is often used as a cleaning method to prime a surface for the application of paint or a sealant. When painting, one doesn’t want to trap dust, dirt or bubbles in a previous layer of paint, or other imperfections under the new layer. By launching small bits of abrasive at the surface at a high speed, all imperfections are knocked loose and can then be easily washed off, creating an incredibly smooth surface upon which to lay the new layer of paint. Sandblasting has been used for such projects as cleaning the hulls of ships or large structures such as the Golden Gate Bridge.

Historically, the material used for artificial sandblasting was sand that had been sieved to a uniform size. The silica dust produced in the sandblasting process caused silicosis. Silicosis also known as Grinder’s disease and Potter’s rot, is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring. It was first noticed by Ramazzini in the lungs of stonecutters in 1705.)

Sandblasting may now only be performed in controlled environment using ventilation, protective clothing and a breathable air supply.

Other materials for sandblasting have been developed to be used instead of sand; for example, steel grit, steel shots, copper slag, glass beads (bead blasting), metal pellets, dry ice, garnet, powdered abrasives of various grades, powdered slag, and even ground coconut shells or corncobs have been used for specific applications and produce distinct surface finishes.

Sidebar definition of Sandblasting courtesy of Wikipedia and Google

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